WHAT IS YOUR SCALP & HAIR PROFILE™
I developed the Scalp & Hair Profile in 2018, after noticing certain hair and scalp characteristics from just over 60,000 clients that have had their hair done at Hairtural Studio since 2016. Hairtural Studio is a Damage-Free™ salon that specializes 100% in only natural hair, it is comb-free, heat-free, braid-free, and dye-free.
The Scalp & Hair Profile is my 3-step process for helping you know you hair better. Having healthy hair begins with knowing your Scalp & Hair Profile, so that you can choose the best hair care regimen that caters to your specific needs. Choosing the correct hair care routine is essential for making your hair healthy and the best it can be.
01
CHARACTERISTICS
Knowing your hair begins with learning the important genetic characteristics that make up your hair profile; the size and shape of the follicle, scalp hydration and sensitivity, and sebum production.
02
ANALYSIS
The second part of the process is learning what takes your hair out of balance. A scalp and hair analysis is required to identify what the imbalances are, and a consultation to get to the root of what is causing them.
03
TREATMENT
The final part is learning about which treatments bring your hair back to balance and good health.
01. CHARACTERISTICS
The natural profile of your hair is defined by genetic characteristics; the shape and size of the follicle, scalp sensitivity level and hydration, and sebum production.
SIZE & SHAPE OF FOLLICLE
The size and shape of the follicle determines the hair's diameter and its curl pattern (what's referred to as hair type).
DIAMETER
What is it? The size of the follicle determines the diameter or width of each individual hair strand. There is fine, medium and coarse diameter.
Why it's important? It is related to your hair's strength, the finer the diameter the more fragile it is because it has no medulla. It also tells us how well your hair holds hairstyles. Fine hair is easily damaged by bleaches and chemicals and prone to traction alopecia from dreadlocks and braids.
CURL PATTERN
What is it? The shape of the hair follicle determines the hair's curl pattern (straight, wavy or curly). If your follicle is round, hair will tend to grow straight, while an oval follicle will give wavy hair and an eliptical-shaped follicle will give you curly hair (hair types 1, 2, 3, and 4).
Why it's important? The tighter the curl pattern the more fragile the hair is and prone to breakage, it requires extra care when styling and handling. The tighter the curl pattern the harder it is for sebum to coat the entire hair shaft, this will result in drier hair, particularly the hair ends.
SCALP SENSITIVITY
We all have a protective outer layer on our scalp. This barrier is a layer of lipids, composed of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids produced by keratinocytes in the stratum corneum layer of epidermis. It performs two main jobs: keeping water in, and keeping potentially damaging things, like UV rays, wind, heat, and harsh chemicals, out. If you have a sensitive scalp, this barrier is typically weaker, thinner, and more easily damaged, making it easier for irritants to penetrate the scalp and cause inflammation.
SEBUM SECRETION
What is it? Sebum is the natural oil produced by sebaceous glands in the scalp.
Why it's important? Healthy hair grows out of a healthy scalp. Under or overproduction of sebum is an indication of an unbalanced scalp, which may require a consultation with a trichologist.
There are 4 Natural Hair Profiles: dry, sensitive, fragile and oily. I have put together a list of these profile and their characteristics to help you easily determine which one suits you personally.
DRY HAIR
Dry scalp and dry hair due to the low production of the natural oil (sebum).
Needs nourishment
SENSITIVE SCALP
Sensitive scalp prone to allergies with skin based reactions such as itching and eczema.
Needs protection from allergens
The hair diameter is fine - making it very fragile and prone to breakage.
Needs protein to strengthen
OILY SCALP
Oily scalp that results in oily, dehydrated hair with low porosity.
Needs detoxing to remove buildup
FRAGILE HAIR
Take quiz to discover your natural hair profile.
02.
ANALYSIS
The second part in the process looks at identifying any imbalances. A detailed scalp and hair analysis allows me to see the state of your hair shaft, follicles and scalp closeup. I use a trichoscope to assess the density and diameter of your hair, scaling, inflammation, and to view the condition of your hair follicles. My findings, in combination with the consultation helps me understand the root cause of the imbalance.
03.
TREATMENT
The final part is learning about which treatments bring your hair back to balance and good health. If there were underlying health issues addressed by a dermatologist or trichologist it means following the course of treatments.
After treatment, we look at indicators of the overall health of the hair, like porosity, scalp pH, scalp moisture and sebum balance, and hair elasticity.
POROSITY
What is it? Porosity is how tight or loose the hair cuticles are (outer layer of the hair).
Why it's important? It tells us how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. High porosity is due damage - mechanical (combing blow drying) and chemical (relaxers, dyes) damage.
SCALP pH
What is it? The pH scale is a measure of the hydrogen-ion concentration ranging from 0-14. Water is considered neutral with a pH of 7. Anything below 7 is acidic and anything above 7 is alkaline. The scalp pH is around 5.5 while the hair pH is 3.67.
Why it's important? The hair's acidic pH allows the cuticle to contract (an alkaline pH opens up the follicle making it porous). The acidic pH of the scalp helps protect it from any harmful pathogens.
MOISTURE-SEBUM BALANCE
What is it? The sweat and sebum produced by the scalp form a thin film on the scalp's surface called the acid mantle.
Why it's important? The sweat forms the moisture and the sebum helps block any moisture loss.
ELASTICITY
What is it? Elasticity is your hair's natural stretch.
Why it's important? Healthy hair has a high level of elasticity, and this is what gives hair its body, bounce, and texture formation. Elasticity makes the hair more pliable, flexible and provides ease when styling. It is a telltale sign of hair health.