DISCOVER YOUR
NATURAL HAIR PROFILE
KNOW AND UNDERSTAND YOUR HAIR BETTER
I developed the Natural Hair Profile in 2018, after noticing certain hair and scalp characteristics from just over 60,000 clients that have had their hair done at Hairtural Studio since 2016. Hairtural Studio is a Damage-Free™ salon that specializes 100% in only natural hair, it is comb-free, heat-free, braid-free, and dye-free.
The Natural Hair Profile is my 3-step process for helping you know you hair better. Having healthy hair begins with knowing your Natural Hair Profile, so that you can choose the best hair care regimen that caters to your specific needs. Choosing the correct hair care routine is essential for making your hair healthy and the best it can be.
01
CHARACTERISTICS
Knowing your hair begins with learning the important genetic characteristics that make up your hair profile; the size and shape of the follicle, scalp sensitivity, and sebum production.
02
ANALYSIS
The second part of the process is learning what takes your hair out of balance. A scalp and hair analysis is required to identify what the imbalances are, and a consultation to get to the root of what is causing them.
03
TREATMENT
The final part is learning about which treatments bring your hair back to balance and good health.
01. CHARACTERISTICS
The natural profile of your hair is defined by genetic characteristics; the shape and size of the follicle, scalp sensitivity, and sebum production.
SIZE & SHAPE OF FOLLICLE
The size and shape of the follicle determines the hair's diameter and its curl pattern (what's referred to as hair type). DIAMETER What is it? The size of the follicle determines the diameter or width of each individual hair strand. There is fine, medium and coarse diameter. Why it's important? It is related to your hair's strength, the finer the diameter the more fragile it is. It also tells us how well your hair holds hairstyles. CURL PATTERN What is it? The shape of the hair follicle determines the hair's curl pattern (straight, wavy or curly). If your follicle is round, hair will tend to grow straight, while an oval follicle will give wavy hair and an eliptical-shaped follicle will give you curly hair (hair types 1, 2, 3, and 4). Why it's important? The tighter the curl pattern the more fragile the hair is and prone to breakage, it requires extra care when styling and handling.
SCALP SENSITIVITY
We all have a protective outer layer on our scalp. This barrier is a layer of lipids, composed of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids produced by keratinocytes in the stratum corneum layer of epidermis. It performs two main jobs: keeping water in, and keeping potentially damaging things, like UV rays, wind, heat, and harsh chemicals, out. If you have a sensitive scalp, this barrier is typically weaker, thinner, and more easily damaged, making it easier for irritants to penetrate the scalp and cause inflammation.
SEBUM PRODUCTION
What is it? Sebum is the natural oil produced by sebaceous glands in the scalp. Why it's important? Healthy hair grows out of a healthy scalp. Under or overproduction of sebum is an indication of an unbalanced scalp, which may require a consultation with a trichologist of dermatologist.
There are 4 Natural Hair Profiles: dry, sensitive, fragile and oily. I have put together a list of these profile and their characteristics to help you easily determine which one suits you personally.
DRY HAIR
Dry scalp and dry hair due to the low production of the natural oil (sebum).
Needs nourishment
SENSITIVE SCALP
Sensitive scalp prone to allergies with skin based reactions such as itching and eczema.
Needs protection from allergens
The hair diameter is fine - making it very fragile and prone to breakage.
Needs protein to strengthen
OILY SCALP
Oily scalp that results in oily, dehydrated hair with low porosity.
Needs detoxing to remove buildup
FRAGILE HAIR
Take quiz to discover your natural hair profile.
02.
ANALYSIS
The second part in the process looks at identifying any imbalances. A detailed scalp and hair analysis allows me to see the state of your hair shaft, follicles and scalp closeup. I use a trichoscope to assess the density and diameter of your hair, scaling, inflammation, and to view the condition of your hair follicles. My findings, in combination with the consultation helps me understand the root cause of the imbalance.
03.
TREATMENT
The final part is learning about which treatments bring your hair back to balance and good health. If there were underlying health issues addressed by a dermatologist or trichologist it means following the course of treatments.
After treatment, we look at indicators of the overall health of the hair, like porosity, scalp pH, scalp moisture and sebum balance, and hair elasticity.
POROSITY
What is it? Porosity is how tight or loose the hair cuticles are (outer layer of the hair).
Why it's important? It tells us how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. High porosity is due damage - mechanical (combing blow drying) and chemical (relaxers, dyes) damage.
SCALP pH
What is it? The pH scale is a measure of the hydrogen-ion concentration ranging from 0-14. Water is considered neutral with a pH of 7. Anything below 7 is acidic and anything above 7 is alkaline. The scalp pH is around 5.5 while the hair pH is 3.67.
Why it's important? The hair's acidic pH allows the cuticle to contract (an alkaline pH opens up the follicle making it porous). The acidic pH of the scalp helps protect it from any harmful pathogens.
MOISTURE-SEBUM BALANCE
What is it? The sweat and sebum produced by the scalp form a thin film on the scalp's surface called the acid mantle.
Why it's important? The sweat forms the moisture and the sebum helps block any moisture loss.
ELASTICITY
What is it? Elasticity is your hair's natural stretch.
Why it's important? Healthy hair has a high level of elasticity, and this is what gives hair its body, bounce, and texture formation. Elasticity makes the hair more pliable, flexible and provides ease when styling. It is a telltale sign of hair health.
NATURAL HAIR PROFILES
DRY HAIR
You have a dry scalp and dry hair because of low sebum (oil) production. Your scalp needs a healthy balance of sebum to function; the sebum helps hold moisture. When the scalp doesn't produce enough sebum, it loses the capacity to hold onto moisture causing it to get dry and feel tight - this may result in small, dry, flaky dandruff that easily falls off the hair. Because of the low sebum coating the hair, it gets dry and brittle, and the hair ends (being the oldest part of the hair) get split ends on almost every single hair strand. The split ends make the hair tangle easily.
Recommended Hair Care Regimen
Your hair and scalp need HYDRATION and NOURISHMENT. Hair is hygroscopic, that is it gets its moisture from the air around it (learn more about this). So it’s important to moisturize it, and lock in that moisture with products with heavy oils and butters that nourish it. Also deep condition twice a month (every week in winter) to maintain the moisture. Humidity levels drop in winter which causes your hair to be more dry. Sleep with a satin bonnet or pillowcase to protect your hair from dryness caused by friction between your hair and moisture absorbing materials like cotton. Your hair gets moisture from the air around it but your scalp gets its hydration internally, drink water daily to keep your scalp hydrated. Your scalp produces sebum to maintain the moisture. When your scalp is dry (not producing enough sebum) apply a hydrating serum and a nourishing scalp cream.
Recommended Professional Salon Treatment
To keep your hair healthy you need salon services that do not damage your hair. The moisturizing treatment at Hairtural hydrates dry, brittle natural hair and nourishes it with rich, emollient oils to soften your hair.
SENSITIVE SCALP
Your scalp gets very sensitive - it is prone to allergies with skin-based reactions such as itching, eczema, allergic dermatitis, and rashes. Common causes of scalp allergies include products with fragrances, preservatives, and shampoos that are too harsh. Because your scalp is an extension of your skin, some food allergies (like dairy and wheat allergies) may cause an itchy scalp and other scalp irritations. Those with sensitive scalp are also highly affected by seasonal changes so if you have this natural hair profile, you may need to switch up your products depending on the season.
Recommended Hair Care Regimen
Your scalp and hair need HYDRATION. Hair is hygroscopic, that is it gets its moisture from the air around it (learn more about this). So it’s important to moisturize it, and lock in that moisture with products oils and butters that nourish it. Mist your hair through out the day, very important during winter (also at the office because of the aircon) when humidity levels are low which causes your hair to be more dry. Your sensitive scalp needs to be PROTECTED by using gentle, fragrance-free, non-irritating, allergen-free products. Use products with soothing oils and butters (like jojoba oil and raw shea butter). Sleep with a satin bonnet or pillowcase to protect your hair from dryness caused by friction between your hair and moisture absorbing materials like cotton.
Recommended Professional Salon Treatment
To keep your hair healthy you need salon services that do not damage your hair. The scalp protection treatment at Hairtural is free of allergens and it hydrates dry, brittle natural hair and nourishes it with rich, emollient oils to soften your hair.
FRAGILE HAIR
Your hair is soft with fine diameter (hair strand is thinner than sewing thread) making it fragile and delicate... and prone to breakage. It gets weighed down more easily and quickly by product build up than coarser hair. Its colour ranges from black to a brownish-black. Your hair has a defined curl pattern with "S" shaped curls. When imbalanced there is loss of colour (more brownish) and premature greying that can start in your 20s, with lots of breakage.
Recommended Hair Care Regimen
Your hair care regimen needs to focus on STRENGTHENING the hair, your products must have protein in them. Hair is hygroscopic, that is it gets its moisture from the air around it (learn more about this). So it’s important to moisturize it, and lock in that moisture with products with oils and butters. Avoid applying heavy oils on your hair (like castor oil), they will weigh your hair down because fine hair tends to have a thinner cuticle layer. A scalp oil, that doesn't irritate your scalp, is recommended for a scalp massage to stimulate blood flow to the hair follicles. Nourishment for the hair comes via the blood vessels.
Recommended Professional Salon Treatment
To keep your hair healthy you need salon services that do not damage your hair. The strengthening treatment at Hairtural is protein enriched to penetrate the hair cuticle and strengthen it from the inside to reduce breakage.
OILY SCALP
Your scalp is very oily because the sebaceous glands in the scalp produce a lot of sebum (natural oil). This makes you prone to seborrheic dermatitis which causes large, yellow flakes that clump together on the scalp and hair shaft. The excess sebum produced, coats the hair shaft making it hard for your hair to absorb moisture (resulting in low porosity). This causes the hair not to wet easily, so water beads up on the surface and bounces off. You end up with an oily scalp and dehydrated hair.
Recommended Hair Care Regimen
Hair is hygroscopic, that is it gets its moisture from the air around it (learn more about this). So it’s important to moisturize it, and lock in that moisture with products with oils and butters that nourish it. If your scalp is oily it can cause greasy hair, it is important to DETOX it on a regular basis. Avoid products with heavy oils (like castor oil) on your scalp, they are comedogenic and will clog up your follicles causing dandruff. Grape seed oil is a perfect match for your scalp. Also, do not oil your scalp.
Recommended Professional Salon Treatment
To keep your hair healthy you need salon services that do not damage your hair. The clarifying detox treatment at Hairtural detoxes the hair and scalp by removing product build-up, dirt, dandruff, and impurities. Leaves your scalp and natural hair fresh.